The Olympian

The Olympian at Johnny McGuire's
Johnny McGuire's Deli comes to Las Vegas from Aspen, and although the Colorado ski town and its Vegas digs at the popular "lifestyle" center Town Square may share a certain upscale atmosphere, this fun, loud sandwich shop feels like a college hangout. During our first visit, a quick chick worked the register while two cooks worked the line at breakneck speeds with A Tribe Called Quest bumping powerfully overhead. It's good.

Not as good as this sandwich, however. The Olympian, which I ordered on a home-baked white sub roll, is somehow compact enough to fit into my face even though it's stacked with grilled corn beef, turkey, pastrami, onions, peppers, melted Swiss cheese, a bit of coleslaw, tomato and a dressing very much like Thousand Island. The dressing and slaw provided only a bit of moisture to loosen things up as the dominant flavors came from the cheese, the fresh bread, tasty turkey and the salty grilled meat. Typically a sandwich with this number of ingredients will come off muddled, but this taste is bright and clean, delicious and addictive. And green peppers, these slightly sizzled, are quickly becoming my choice for most sandwich-friendly veggie.

Johnny McGuire's has a bountiful crop of custom sandwiches to choose from, with the Olympian being the most elaborate. We will be exploring the menu further.

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