12.09.2011

Juicy Lucy

Juicy Lucy at Crossroads at House of Blues
C-
If you watch a lot of food TV, you might be pretty excited about this. The "Juicy Lucy" burger, originated somehow, somewhere, is all over TV whenever I switch to the Food Network or the Travel Channel or the Cheeseburger Channel or what the fuck ever. I've even seen a show where two different versions of this burger battled each other, and were judged by alleged experts. (Okay, maybe I'm jealous. Maybe we like to think there is no greater assessment of burger greatness than what is done right here at allsandwich.) What seems like a simple concept is portrayed as revolutionary through all this hype. The cheese is inside the burger! And armageddon ensues.

Whether or not the Juicy Lucy is a phenomenon that is sweeping our nation, this is the first time I've seen it on a Las Vegas menu actually called a "Juicy Lucy." And it's at an odd place, not because the House of Blues restaurant in Mandalay Bay is kind of a glorified bar and grill, but because it's traditionally been a soul food-inspired eatery which is now swinging toward Mexican food. Confusing, right? And smack in the middle of this mess is this rather basic burger, stuffed full of two different cheeses, overcooked, and dropped on a completely mediocre bun. The only flavor besides melty-gooey-cheesiness comes from the roasted peppers, which only make sense because of this vague new southwestern theme. Things are weird here. This burger isn't weird, but it sure is boring.

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