1.31.2011

Chilean Dog

Chilean Dog at The Lunch Box
A
The cool owner of this cool little hot dog spot near UNLV was inspired by a student from Chile to create this tasty masterpiece, an interesting combination of spicy, creamy and savory. The Lunch Box guy gets his buns from the local Great Buns Bakery, and it's a fresh taste with a soft-but-firm-enough texture, just the right vessel to carry the all-beef Vienna Frank to your mouth. Things get crazy when the toppings come into play: yellow mustard and spicy mayo, fresh slices of tomato and avocado, and a sweet-and-sour, crunchy sauerkraut. I don't know if this is how they do dogs in Chile, but I'm glad they're doing them here. Next time we hit The Lunch Box, we'll sample a Tokyo Dog and a scratch-made Belgian chocolate chip waffle ice cream sandwich.

1.26.2011

Manhattan

The Manhattan at Johnny McGuire's
B-
The subs at Johnny McGuire's continue to impress, buoyed powerfully by fresh baked rolls. This sandwich, the Manhattan, was ordered on a wheat roll, and it was just as chewy and delicious as the white ones. With toppings of corned beef, Swiss cheese, purple cabbage coleslaw, tomato, onions and green peppers with Thousand Island dressing, the Manhattan feels like it should have been a hot sandwich with the veggies tossed on at the end. But warmed up, it might have been closer to the shop's version of a Reuben.

Tamago Burger

Tamago Burger at Fukuburger
A+
We can't think of a more perfectly decadent topping for a juicy burger than a rich, oozy fried egg, the yolk mingling with the fatty juices from the beef. Actually, that sounds kinda gross described that way, huh? But we all know it's delicious. The Fukuburger version of the egg burger, like everything else on the menu of this Asian-inspired Vegas food truck, takes things to another level.

The Tamago Burger has the signature Fuku patty -- a wonderfully moist, juicy beef burger marinated in sake, mirin and yuzu, then grilled and finished with a slightly sweet glaze -- with our friend the fried egg, crispy onion strings, a dash of teryiaki and furikake and Fuku's special sauce, a Japanese spin on mayo. Besides the creativity, the most amazing feat is Fuku's tendency to cook each burger perfectly medium, which captializes on the bold flavors of those crazy toppings.

1.24.2011

The Original Double 'n Cheese

The Original Double 'n Cheese at Steak 'n Shake
B
Let's not argue. The Steak 'n Shake in Las Vegas is still a Steak 'n Shake, okay? If this is not the steakburger you remember from your Midwest roots, it's not because we're in Vegas. It's because times have changed and so have fast food outlets, even if when they first opened, there was no such thing as fast food.

This is a damn good cheeseburger, with all the traditional fixings. Veggies are fresh, everything is in proportion, and the meat is juicy and delicious. Vegas-wise, it's very close to a much newer franchise, Smashburger, which also is new to Vegas. It's also pretty close, stylistically, to the In-N-Out double-double. This is a classic, and very satisfying.

1.20.2011

Whitefish Salad

Whitefish Salad Sandwich at Bagel Cafe
A+
Writing this mini-review of this sandwich, in all seriousness, is making me angry right now because it makes me want to eat this bitch right now. I don't know if you can make a more perfect sandwich. I love you, Bagel Cafe. I love you and I am in love with you.

So I choose their homemade rye for this sandwich, not toasted even though it might hold together better if was toasted. But with soft bread, the rich, creamy, smoky whitefish salad will spill out every few bites, and I like that because I'm going to eat it all anyway and it doesn't matter if I have to use a fork to finish my sandwich. Fresh lettuce, red onion and ripe tomatoes are a wonderful complement but there's no stealing the spotlight from the fish, so moist with some celery and onion tossed in for a satisfying mini-crunch. There are few delicatessens of Bagel Cafe's category in Las Vegas but nothing that offers as much variety on the menu, and they make damn near everything themselves. So, yeah, there is no competition.

1.11.2011

The Rising Sun

The Rising Sun at Holsteins
A
 A brand new, fancy-ass casino resort opens on the Las Vegas Strip, and what do we do? Head straight for the sandwich, of course. Would you expect anything less? The only restaurant in the shiny new Cosmopolitan with already established Vegas ties is Holsteins Shakes and Buns, a burger palace from the makers of the decent LBS joint at the Red Rock Resort. But as you must do when you hit the Strip, these guys stepped their game up. The Holsteins menu is impressive, even stacked up against the never-ending cavalcade of fancy gourmet hamburger restaurants lining Las Vegas Boulevard. Interesting appetizers and cute sample-size mini-burgers and mini-dogs abound, and the selection of full-sized burgers is diverse and tempting.

I opted for one of the Asian-influenced burgers, the Rising Sun, which boasts Kobe beef with a teriyake glaze, a sprinklin' of furikake (dried ground fishy flakes with sesame and seaweed), thin strings of crispy fried yam, a slab of tempura avocado, and a spicy mayonnaise sauce. Took a bite, wow. I have enjoyed some great Asian burgers in town recently, from Bachi Burger to Fukuburger, and this one is right up there with the best. The meat is simply outstanding, juicy and beefy-fabulous and cooked perfectly medium, and complemented nicely by the sharp if slightly-too-sweet glaze. I couldn't detect the nori furikake and didn't pick up anything but a little saucy texture from the mayo, but that's because the flavor of the beef and the nice crispy texture of the yam frites is all you need. The avocado lends a nice, creamy touch, but this baby is all about the cow. It's a very impressive burger. In fact, it's good enough to merit a return to Holsteins, which is a substantial statement considering all the delicious food waiting to be eaten at the Cosmopolitan.

1.10.2011

Christy Special

Christy Special at B&B's Pickle Barrel
B
Every college town should have a Pickle Barrel nearby, a laidback spot with a chalkboard full of great food, a bar, and a giant, somewhat unsanitary bin of grab-your-own pickles from which to snare a salty delight. Getting used to the veggie friendly style of Fort Collins, I opted for a meat-free experiment on my first visit to this beloved shop, and munched down on the Christy Special. Among the grilled mushrooms and onions, fresh tomatoes, lettuce and avocado, and tangy vinaigrette, please note the mound of melted havarti cheese. Havarti really ought to appear on more sandwiches, as its smooth, creamy, almost buttery Danish goodness stands up well against sharp dressings and pickled or vinegary vegetables. I don't know who this is Christy is, or why she likes havarti cheese so much, but I appreciate her good taste.




Banana-Nutella Sandwiches

Banana-Nutella Sandwiches at Firefly
A+
Ladies and gentlemen, we now present one of the greatest dessert sandwiches of all time. Coming to you from Las Vegas' most loved, most popular, most cool neighborhood restaurant (Firefly), these are banana-nutella sandwiches. They are perfectly sized little bites of grilled bread filled with everyone's favorite choco-hazelnut spread and warm, gooey banana, topped with more nutella, strawberries and powdered sugar, and served with nutella cream dipping sauce (which is really just more nutella). So simple. So rich. So awesome. Ladies and gentlemen, please welcome the first sweet treat to the allsandwich A+ list.

The Mogul

The Mogul at Avogadro's Number
B
This comfy college-area bar and live music spot in Fort Collins reminds me a lot of what I imagine (but cannot remember) my family sandwich shop back home in Eugene, Oregon, was like. I like it, and I like the food a lot, even if it is kinda hippy-style and they serve tempeh burgers and crazy stuff like that. But there is meat on the menu, and plenty of it on the mogul, a soft sub roll stacked with sliced and grilled bird and loads of veggies coated in melted Swiss. The Mogul has quite the hot-and-cool vibe going, with sauteed mushrooms and grilled onions and bell peppers, and then the juxtaposition of lettuce, tomato, creamy dijon mustard and a solid house dressing. Like the other bites I've sampled at Avo's, this sandwich is fresh and delicious.

1.03.2011

Spicy Chicken Sandwich Deluxe

Spicy Chicken Sandwich Deluxe at Chik-Fil-A
B+
They don't have Chik-Fil-A in Vegas. I don't know why. But I know we should have it, because everybody tells me we should have it. I couldn't understand why people seem to go apeshit for a fast-food fried chicken sandwich, how something so simple could be so good it would inspire such a rabid following. So now I have tasted it. It's pretty good. But that's all.

This Chik-Fil-A Spicy Chicken Sandwich Deluxe was consumed in the lovely burg of Loveland, Colorado, where I spent my holiday vacation. There is a lot of fast food in this small town, and Chik-Fil-A seems to be just another joint to grab a quick bite. So the details: it's a boneless chicken breast, of course, hand-breaded and cooked in peanut oil, served on a buttered bun with lettuce, tomato, dill pickle chips and pepper jack cheese. That cheese lends a nice little kick, but the flavorful, sometimes crunchy coating is the real treat in this bite. It's much better than the seasonings you'll find at KFC or other fast food chicken outlets, and much more crispy with more spicy flavor than the spicy chicken at Wendy's.

The chicken is juicy and, as wifey puts it, "without any weird parts." It's a great chicken sandwich, actually, good enough that even though I can't get it back home in Vegas, I will wish for it next time I pull into a drive-through window and consider some fried bird on a bun.

Kobe (Not Bryant) Burger

The Kobe (Not Bryant) Burger at Steiner's Nevada Style Pub
B-
Kobe Bryant is named after Japan's Kobe beef. So it is kinda stupid to (sorta) name your Kobe burger after Laker Kobe. But the people at Steiner's are not concerned with their menu making sense. They are, more appropriately, focused on feeding me beer and above-average bar food. This burger falls under that category.

I'm sure the beef isn't Japanese. It's described as "beer-fed, hand-massaged and sake-brushed beef," but I'm sure it's American Wagyu beef. Whatever. It's tasty. Is it a lot better than the average burger at Steiner's, which goes on special Wednesday nights for $5? No, it's just a slight upgrade. But they'll actually cook it the way you want, the buns are fresh, and it'll hit the spot. The Kobe burger comes armed with Maui onions, aged white cheddar, heirloom tomato and crisp lettuce, and it's served on a sourdough bun. It's a more-than-respectable bar burger.

12.28.2010

Short Rib Grilled Cheese Sandwich

Short Rib Grilled Cheese Sandwich at Grand Lux Cafe
C+
Like its sister restaurant (which is more aptly named), the Grand Lux Cafe is a food factory. The menu is outrageously huge, the place is a well-oiled machine and the food is typically pretty good and served in way-too-big portions. And this sandwich, also, is well-oiled, pretty good and way too big.

Braised short ribs are a menu favorite all over Vegas, and so it was hard to pass up this lunch option. It combines the succulent, slow-roasted beef with a melty but unidentified white cheese and not enough carmelized onions, served on grilled white bread. The ingredient the menu description does not include is butter, as there is a shit-ton of it grilled into the bread. That's okay, as butter is usually the secret to a top quality grilled cheese. Problem is, there's not enough cheese. I'm all for throwing some meat -- especially short ribs -- into your grilled cheese sandwich, but let's keep the proportions proper, huh? Overall, this sucker is very rich, very filling, and completely unnecessary. Balance is tricky, and you're probably not gonna find it in a food factory like this.


The Vito

The Vito Sub at Jimmy John's
B+
In my getting-less-humble opinion, this sub is the best sandwich on the menu of the best monster sandwich chain around. Jimmy John's is just solid stuff: the bread is fresh and great, the meats and cheeses are high quality, and they throw it together in a quick and classic way.

Speaking of classics, this Italian sub has a traditional meat mix of Genoa salami and just-spicy-enough capicola. (Actually, the cappy is a little sweet and a little spicy.) There's smooth provolone cheese, onions, tomatoes, shredded iceberg lettuce and a tangy vinaigrette to bring out the best in the veggies. Like most everything at Jimmy John's, I highly recommend you order the Vito with hot cherry peppers, which add a powerful vinegary kick. An Italian sub is a beautiful thing, and it's pretty good every time at Jimmy John's.

Reuben

Reuben at Zoozacrackers
C
Yes, most everything you'll eat inside Wynn Las Vegas is ultra-delicious and fancy. Does that include this little deli stop near the sportsbook? Eh. Fancy, yes. Ultra-delicious? How about just slightly tasty?

Actually, this half-reuben was solid, unspectacular, and just a little boring. So ... definitely not living up to the Wynn standard. Riding on toasted seedy rye bread, you've got Swiss cheese, some pretty bland, kinda fatty corned beef, crisp, cool sauerkraut that really falls somewhere between typical 'kraut and coleslaw, and Russian dressing with a bit of a bite. Horseradish, perhaps? The bread was the best part. The meat just didn't bring it. I don't care if there's 'kraut or not, a deli sandwich has to be all about the meat.

It's kinda funny ... Wynn is one of the best hotels for food on the Vegas Strip, but the best sandwich spots on the boulevard (Carnegie, 'Wichcraft, Burger Bar, Canter's) are in hotels with lesser overall culinary acclaim.

Famous Star

Famous Star with Cheese at Carl's Jr.
D
Ugh. I gave in, finally. It wasn't a fast food urge that forced me to succumb, it was the damn Carl's Jr. they just opened across the street from my house. I was in a rush, there it was, no line at the drive-through. I'm a sucker. Damn you, fast food convenience. You are evil.

Carl's Jr. burgers, like their counterparts at Burger King, are better tasting than the average fast food burger due to charbroilyness. But this, the standard cheeseburger on the menu, is woefully inadequate in the flavor department. American cheese, lettuce, tomato, onion, pickles, special sauce and mayo on a sesame seed bun ... that's how you make a Famous Star. That's how you bore me to death. Of course, Carl's is home to the crazy "Six Dollar Burgers," which may contain anything from portobello mushrooms to guacamole. But I just can't get excited about this menu or this burger. I'll try my best not to return.

12.13.2010

Pastrami, Vol. 1

Pastrami, Vol. 1
homemade
A-
What if you lived in a city famous for its spectacular food, but none of that food was actually from that city?

What if you could eat almost anything you want at almost any time you want, but not everything is going to turn out just the way it should be?

Why is the best pastrami in Las Vegas made in New York City?

Why can't we make our own stuff? Why? Can't? We?

This is pastrami, dry-brined for three days, home-smoked for over three hours, sliced thick and dropped on dill rye bread with (unseen) garlic mustard. The relatively small size of the 2.5-pound brisket allowed the curing process to go bananas, and so this meat is very salty. Eating it by itself, it is juicy and delicious with all the right notes of coriander seed and black pepper until a few seconds in when the salt sledgehammer smacks your buds out your mouth. But on this pleasant, soft, fragrant bread, it's a magical meal, almost balanced and much more satisfying than any of the high-stacked piles of thin-sliced, fatty, pink meat I've eaten lately.

This is one. There will be two, then three, four, maybe more. I'm going to do this. Wanna taste?

11.30.2010

Egg, Ham & Cheese on Hoagie

Egg, Ham & Cheese on Hoagie at Snacks at Bellagio
C
Though it's one of the fanciest resorts in the world, the Bellagio does in fact have sandwiches. More specifically, it has a sportsbook in its casino, and every sportsbook needs a mini-deli or snack bar. The one at Bellagio is simply called Snacks, and the menu is just as simple. Leading off its breakfast (served all day) offerings is this thing, which includes every single ingredient in its name. The soft scrambly eggs, barely melted cheese and shaved ham almost give me a fast-food-breakfast vibe. The only redeeming bit of this bite is a spongy, delicious roll. Also, it's nice, and odd, to have a pickle spear served alongside breakfast potatoes.

If you're looking for breakfast in Bellagio, definitely opt for buffet, cafe, room service or the magical Jean Philippe patisserie.

French Dip

French Dip at Bob Taylor's Original Ranch House
This old school restaurant is known for two things: being hella old, and serving up great big slabs of smoked prime rib. So this is the lunch version, thin slices of that flavorful beef on a nice toasty French roll, slathered in melted provolone and served with salty au jus for dipping. It's a pretty solid sandwich, but as you can see from this cross section, a little extra beef would've been nice. Thinner slices takes away a lot of the fat and flavor of prime rib, but as far as the ordinarily boring French dip sandwich goes, the ranch house does it decent.

11.20.2010

Buffalo Pot Roast

Buffalo Pot Roast Sandwich
homemade
A+
Leftovers = sandwich greatness.

Roasting a buffalo shoulder was something of a Thanksgiving tryout. Buffalo meat has great taste considering how lean it is, but could the texture be manipulated to replicate mom's beloved pot roast? Hoping for the best, I brought in a secret weapon: piggy. So this roast went in the magic blue LeCreuset wrapped with slab bacon, and accompanied by garlic, celery, carrots, onions and red wine. The result was soft and tender meat, slightly gamey taste, but an overall lack of succulence. Eh, good try.

But after piling all these goodies on two slabs of fresh sliced crusty French bread, slathered with my shit Boetje's Dutch stone ground mustard, we've got a super winner. Rustic, spicy, messy, hearty, totally satisfying ... especially with the chewy bacon and glistening, fat-glazed carrots riding shotgun. This is basically having a bowl of stew and a chunk of bread, minus the bowl. Accidental ideas rock.

11.12.2010

El Korean "Nate" Dog

El Korean "Nate" Dog at HanShikTaco
A
Vegas' first Korean taco stand also serves up these spicy, creamy, tasty dogs. This weiner is split and sizzled up nicely, releasing its savory delights much more than your typical uncompromised frank, dropped in a toasty bun and covered with some customized Asian-fusion toppings: HanShik's very own spicy-sour kimchi, sriracha-spiked ketchup, a thinner yet still formidable mayo, and the special chili seasoning dust that also comes on this fun food stand's delicious, crispy fries.

If you think this looks delicious, wait 'til you get some of these tacos. The Vegas food truck revolution continues, and it sure tastes good.